User:ShakespeareFan00/Trouser cutting

I will also note (for reference) an observation on  the pattern proceeding the page mentioning the Vincent "Square".

Observation 1:

There appears to be some (additional) information and context I didn't initially understand ( It's absent in the accompanying notes for the pattern on https://archive.org/details/b1108865/page/n13, but is assumed to be  something someone in tailoring profession of the relevant period would otherwise know ).

"A Beginner's First Course in Cutting "  https://archive.org/details/Vincent.A.Beginners.First.Course.In.Cutting.Part.I.and.II.CPG/page/n7   (which was also authored by W.D.F Vincent.) seems to say that  the "length of side" (outside leg?)  is measured from  a point above  the "waist hollow" (And not from the actual waist),  the text in the "Beginners Course" mentioning  'body rise'  (a line 5 to 9 in the diagram here  https://archive.org/details/b1108865/page/n13 )  ( 5 to 8 is what Seamly2D defines as N08- rise length side I think, but Vincent doesn't take this as a separate measure, seemingly calculating it from the lateral seat (hip) measure in some places,  placing the 'wasit line' nominally about 2 inches below the 'top-line' according to the digram in the "Beginners Course" .    Part 3 of the Cutter's Practical Guide also confirms this).

Once I'd figured this out I understand the pattern better. :slight_smile:, but understand I might have to adjust certain measures when drafting from these older patternsystems. ( Seamly2D being very well suited to them.)

It's noted by Vincent in the  first linked work, that some trouser patterns may need a different seat angle to accommodate modified posture., This is notable in some of the modified patterns for things like riding pants, breeches and so on that follow..

I've actually learnt something today, so thanks for inspiring me to look a little deeper.

Observation 2 is far simpler, namely that some of Vincent's digrams include the seams, where as generally in Seamly2D, Seam allowances are made at the detail/layout stage.. Hmmm...

It may be worth adding a comment in the documentation about older pattern systems approaches, but as Vincent's system is at least 100 years old, It's hardly a priority, and so more recent systems should be fully documented first.